Fillers are then applied to bring 'low' patches up to the correct level. Their first job is to degrease the damaged or renewed areas. The car may be received by the sprayer with perhaps a new door fitted, or with crumpled areas restored as far as possible. The panelbeater obviously cannot follow the exact methods of a production line since they may be dealing with ten different makes of car in ten different colours every day, each requiring only limited areas of paint renewal. At every stage, rigid control of paint colour, temperature, viscosity and application pressures has been enforced.Īfter damage to a vehicle has been rectified, It is handed over to the spray shop to restore its original appearance. Finally, the interior voids of the sills are sprayed with a bituminous paint and the finished body is delivered to the assembly line. Blemishes are removed and then the body is reheated to allow the lacquer to 're-flow' - in effect, this means that a layer of Liquid Perspex (Lucite in the USA) forms all over the surface to give a very tough, mirror-like finish. The 'high-bake' ovens, operating at a temperature around 115☌ (240☏), dry the lacquer coats quickly. Two or three coats of acrylic lacquer follow, applied both by hand and automatic spray but with the last coat entirely by hand. Next, the under-body seal is sprayed on automatically and the shell is baked to 300☏ (149☌) to dry off all traces of moisture. Each coat is dried and rubbed down, then further sealers are applied along all joints. Excess 'runs' are rubbed down and then two or three coats of zinc-rich primer are applied by automatic spray.īody sills and other enclosed areas receive applications by long-nosed spray guns, through designed-in apertures or holes drilled for the purpose. A paint dip, up to window level, into a bath of red oxide primer follows after drying, this primer assumes a chocolate colour. This material bonds very securely to the metal surface and, when dried, has a slightly rough feel, ideal for keying on the subsequent paint coats. The initial step is to provide basic protection by spraying phosphate etch over the entire body. In this tunnel, several hundred feet long, paint application areas are interspersed with forced drying sections. It is then vacuum cleaned to remove every particle of dust and grit, and immediately enters a tunnel on a moving conveyor. The first task is to clean it thoroughly using white spirit and hot detergent pressure sprays. Finally, the completed body shell - at this point a dirty, greasy object - is delivered to the paint shop. During transport to the car manufacturer's body-building line and during the pressing and welding of the many body parts, this film remains and is indeed augmented by additional sealants forced into seams, welding creams, drilling lubricants and similar materials used during assembly. Production-line finish rust prevention starts at the steel mill, where newly-manufactured sheet steel is sprayed with oil. The bare metal is exposed and rust, the great enemy, creeps in, spreading under hitherto sound material.
#Cars with paintcode crack
If the surface of a new vehicle could remain undamaged it would virtually last for ever unfortunately, bumps and collisions, spatterings of grit and stones and flexings of the body all remove or crack the paintwork.
Modern car manufacturers recognise the need for body protection and go to great lengths to provide it. While great looking duco makes your car look good, and is critical during re-sale, you should never overlook the fact that the most important function of paint is to protect the body against rust and deterioration caused by the action of the oxygen in the air, aggravated by acid and moist atmospheres. The first thing you will notice about any car is the colour and condition of its paintwork.
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